Bermuda Grass Complete Guide

Visual Symptoms:

Grass turns light green to yellow, especially in spring or during peak growth. Older leaves yellow first, or entire lawn looks pale.

Most Likely Causes:

• Nitrogen deficiency (most common) - Grass is light green to yellow, slow-growing, thin
• Iron chlorosis - Yellow between leaf veins, veins stay green (striped appearance)
• Soil pH too high - Prevents nutrient absorption even if fertilizer applied
• Poor drainage - Waterlogged roots can't absorb nitrogen

How to Diagnose:

1. Check fertilization schedule - when did you last apply nitrogen?
2. Look at leaf pattern - striped yellowing = iron issue, overall pale = nitrogen
3. Get soil test ($15-25) to confirm pH and nutrient levels
4. Check drainage - does water pool for 6+ hours after rain?

Solutions:

• For nitrogen deficiency: Apply 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft using fast-release fertilizer (Scotts Turf Builder 32-0-4). You'll see greening within 7-10 days.
• For iron chlorosis: Apply chelated iron (Fe-EDDHA formula) at 2-4 oz per 1,000 sq ft. Spray form works faster (3-5 days) than granular (7-14 days).
• For high pH: Apply sulfur at 5-10 lbs per 1,000 sq ft to lower pH. Retest in 60 days. Target pH: 6.0-7.0.
• For drainage: Core aerate in late spring, add compost topdressing, or install drainage if severe.

Visual Symptoms:

Patches of dead or missing grass that don't recover even during Bermuda's peak growing season (June-August). May be circular, irregular, or along edges.

Most Likely Causes:

• Soil compaction - High-traffic areas, heavy clay soil, prevents root growth
• Too much shade - Trees have grown, shade has increased over time
• Grub damage - White larvae of beetles feeding on roots (turf peels back like carpet)
• Disease (brown patch, dollar spot) - Fungal infections that killed turf
• Chemical spill or pet urine - Concentrated damage in specific spots

How to Diagnose:

1. Check compaction - can you push screwdriver 6" into soil easily? If not, compacted.
2. Measure sunlight - does area get 6+ hours direct sun? Use phone app to track.
3. Check for grubs - cut 1 sq ft of turf, pull back, count grubs. More than 10 = problem.
4. Look for disease signs - circular patterns, fungal growth, musty smell
5. Ask about spills or pet activity in that area

Solutions:

• For compaction: Core aerate 2-3 times in late spring (May-June), 2 weeks apart. Then overseed with Bermuda seed or lay sod plugs on 6" centers. Topdress with compost.
• For shade: Trim tree canopy to allow more light, or switch to shade-tolerant grass like St. Augustine or Fine Fescue. Bermuda won't grow in heavy shade.
• For grubs: Apply grub killer (imidacloprid or Merit) in July-August when grubs are small. Water in thoroughly. Then reseed or sod after grubs are eliminated (4-6 weeks).
• For disease: Apply fungicide (azoxystrobin or propiconazole), improve drainage, reduce nitrogen, mow more frequently. Reseed once disease is controlled.
• For chemical/pet damage: Water heavily to dilute, scrape top 2" of soil, replace with fresh topsoil, then seed or sod.

Visual Symptoms:

Grass is present but thin, with visible soil. Lacks density. Weak stems that mat down easily. Doesn't feel thick underfoot.

Most Likely Causes:

• Insufficient sunlight - 4-6 hours (minimum for survival, not thriving)
• Mowing too low - Scalping weakens grass, reduces density
• Low fertility - Not enough nitrogen for vigorous growth and spreading
• Wrong cultivar - Common Bermuda is thinner than hybrids like TifWay 419
• Soil compaction - Restricts root development and stolon spreading

How to Diagnose:

1. Measure sun exposure throughout the day - note hours of direct sun
2. Check mowing height - measure with ruler. Should be 1-2" for common, 0.5-1.5" for hybrid
3. Review fertilization - how many lbs nitrogen per year? Target: 3-5 lbs per 1,000 sq ft
4. Identify cultivar - common Bermuda (seeded) is naturally less dense than hybrids (TifWay, Tifgreen)
5. Test soil compaction - screwdriver should penetrate 6" with moderate pressure

Solutions:

• For insufficient sun: Trim trees/shrubs to increase light. If impossible, transition to shade-tolerant grass. Bermuda needs 6-8 hours minimum for density.
• For mowing too low: Raise mower height to 1.5-2" for common Bermuda, 1-1.5" for hybrids. Never remove more than 1/3 of blade height in single mowing.
• For low fertility: Implement aggressive fertilization - 1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft every 4 weeks May-August. Use slow-release for steady growth. Add iron (4 oz/1,000 sq ft) for darker green and vigor.
• For wrong cultivar: Overseed with improved Bermuda varieties, or consider sprigging hybrid Bermuda plugs (TifWay 419, Celebration) on 12" centers. They'll fill in and crowd out thin common Bermuda.
• For compaction: Core aerate in May-June, topdress with ¼" compost, water in. Repeat monthly June-July. This stimulates lateral growth.

Visual Symptoms:

Circular or irregular brown/tan patches ranging from 6" to several feet across. Grass appears dead or dying. May have darker "smoke ring" border.

Most Likely Causes:

• Fungal diseases - Brown patch (circular, 6"-20"), Dollar spot (silver dollar-sized)
• Drought stress - Grass goes dormant (tan/brown) when water-deprived
• Fertilizer burn - Chemical damage from over-application or uneven spreading
• Dog urine - Concentrated nitrogen burns grass (dead center, green ring around)
• Gasoline/chemical spills - Irregular shapes where spilled

How to Diagnose:

1. Check for disease signs - Look for circular patterns, fungal threads (mycelium) in morning dew, musty smell. Brown patch has "smoke ring" of dark grass at edge.
2. Tug test - Pull grass. If it pulls up easily with no roots, likely disease. If roots intact, likely drought or chemical.
3. Inspect pattern - Perfect circles = often disease. Irregular shapes = chemical/spill. Center dead with green ring = dog urine.
4. Check recent applications - Did you fertilize in last 2 weeks? How much? Properly calibrated?
5. Assess watering - Has lawn received 1" per week? Check with rain gauge + irrigation.

Solutions:

• For fungal disease: Apply fungicide containing azoxystrobin (Heritage) or propiconazole (Banner MAXX) every 14-28 days until controlled. Improve air circulation, reduce irrigation frequency (water deeply but less often), mow more frequently, reduce nitrogen.
• For drought stress: Water deeply (1" per week) to bring out of dormancy. Bermuda can survive 4-6 weeks dormant, will green up when watered. If dead (roots gone), seed or sod bare areas.
• For fertilizer burn: Water heavily (1-2" over 2-3 days) to leach excess salts. Wait 4 weeks, then assess recovery. May need to reseed if severely damaged. Always calibrate spreader!
• For dog urine: Water immediately after pet urinates to dilute. Train dogs to use gravel/mulch area. For existing damage, scrape top 2" soil, replace, reseed. Consider fertilizer to green up surrounding area.
• For chemical spills: Scrape affected soil to 4-6" depth, replace with fresh topsoil, seed or sod. Some chemicals (like glyphosate) need 30+ days to degrade before reseeding.

Visual Symptoms:

Crabgrass, goosegrass, sedge, dandelions, or broadleaf weeds growing throughout lawn. Bermuda grass looks weak and sparse, allowing weeds to compete.

Most Likely Causes:

• Thin turf - Bermuda not dense enough to crowd out weeds
• No pre-emergent - Didn't apply preventive herbicide in spring
• Mowing too low - Scalping weakens Bermuda, lets weeds establish
• Overwatering - Shallow frequent watering favors weeds like crabgrass, sedge
• Low fertility - Weak Bermuda can't outcompete aggressive weeds

How to Diagnose:

1. Identify weed type - Grassy weeds (crabgrass, goosegrass) vs sedge (triangular stem) vs broadleaf (dandelion, clover). This determines herbicide choice.
2. Assess turf density - Can you see soil between grass plants? Thin turf = weed invitation.
3. Review pre-emergent history - Did you apply in February-March? This prevents 80% of grassy weeds.
4. Check mowing height - Below 1" = scalping = weeds. Should be 1.5-2" for common Bermuda.
5. Evaluate irrigation - Daily light watering = weed paradise. Should water 2-3x weekly, deeply.

Solutions:

• For existing grassy weeds (crabgrass, goosegrass): Apply post-emergent herbicide containing quinclorac (Drive XLR8) when weeds are young (2-3 leaf stage). Repeat in 2 weeks. Or hand-pull if only a few. Won't work once weeds are mature.
• For sedge (nutsedge): Apply sedge-specific herbicide containing sulfentrazone (Dismiss) or halosulfuron (SedgeHammer). Regular herbicides don't work on sedge. May need 2-3 applications.
• For broadleaf weeds: Apply broadleaf herbicide containing 2,4-D + dicamba + MCPP (Trimec or Weed-B-Gon). Spot-treat or broadcast. Apply when temps below 85°F to avoid Bermuda stress.
• To prevent future weeds: Apply pre-emergent in early spring (February-March) when soil temps hit 55°F for 3 days. Use prodiamine (Barricade) or dithiopyr (Dimension). Second application in early fall (September).
• To strengthen Bermuda (crowds out weeds): Fertilize aggressively (1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft monthly May-August), raise mowing height to 1.5-2", water deeply but infrequently (1" per week in 2-3 sessions), aerate to reduce compaction.

Visual Symptoms:

Bermuda grass stays brown/tan into late May or June while neighbors' lawns are green. Slow vertical growth even during peak season. Takes forever to recover from mowing or damage.

Most Likely Causes:

• Still dormant - Soil temps haven't reached 65°F consistently
• Spring dead spot disease - Fungal infection that kills roots during dormancy
• Winter desiccation - Winter drought killed grass in areas without snow cover
• Low nitrogen - No fertilizer yet = no energy for growth
• Soil too cold - In transition zones, late spring = slow green-up

How to Diagnose:

1. Check soil temperature - Use soil thermometer at 2" depth. Bermuda needs 65°F+ for 3-7 consecutive days to break dormancy. Below that = still sleeping.
2. Look for green shoots - Inspect closely. See any tiny green growth at base? If yes, it's greening (just slow). If all brown with no green = dead or damaged.
3. Tug test - Pull grass. If roots are white/healthy = dormant. If roots are black/mushy = spring dead spot disease.
4. Check last fall fertilization - Did you over-fertilize in fall? Excess nitrogen increases spring dead spot susceptibility.
5. Review winter conditions - Was winter unusually cold or dry? Bermuda can suffer winter injury in upper zones (7b-8a).

Solutions:

• If still dormant (soil below 65°F): Be patient! You can't force green-up until soil warms. Avoid watering heavily (encourages disease). Once soil hits 65°F consistently, apply 0.5-1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft to jumpstart growth.
• For spring dead spot: No cure for current damage - dead areas must be reseeded/sodded. To prevent next year, avoid fall nitrogen after September, apply preventive fungicide (azoxystrobin) in October-November, improve drainage, reduce thatch.
• For winter desiccation damage: Water damaged areas once soil thaws to encourage recovery. Apply light nitrogen (0.5 lb/1,000 sq ft). If no recovery in 30 days after green-up should have started, reseed or sod bare areas.
• For low nitrogen: Apply 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft as soon as soil temps hit 65°F and grass shows first green. Use fast-release for quick response. Grass will green up in 7-10 days.
• For transition zone slow green-up: Consider hybrid varieties with faster spring green-up (Latitude 36, Northbridge) or overseed with annual ryegrass in fall for winter green lawn.

Visual Symptoms:

Lawn feels spongy or bouncy underfoot. When you dig up a section, there's a thick (½"+) layer of brown/tan dead material between grass and soil. Water and fertilizer don't penetrate well.

Most Likely Causes:

• Over-fertilization - Excess nitrogen creates growth faster than microbes can decompose
• Infrequent mowing - Stems become woody, decompose slowly
• Acidic soil - Low pH (below 5.5) slows microbial activity and decomposition
• Poor soil health - Compaction and lack of oxygen limit beneficial microbes
• Hybrid Bermuda tendency - Dense hybrids (TifWay, Tifgreen) naturally produce more thatch

How to Diagnose:

1. Measure thatch depth - Cut small plug of grass. Measure brown layer between green grass and soil. Under ½" = healthy. ½-1" = moderate. Over 1" = severe problem.
2. Bounce test - Walk on lawn. Excessive sponginess = thick thatch layer.
3. Water test - Apply 1" water, check penetration with screwdriver 30 minutes later. If water sits on surface or doesn't penetrate 4-6" = thatch barrier.
4. Review fertilization - Are you applying more than 1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft per month during growing season? Over-fertilizing is #1 cause.
5. Soil test - Check pH. Below 6.0 = slows decomposition, increases thatch.

Solutions:

• For moderate thatch (½-1"): Core aerate in late May-June, making 2-3 passes. Topdress with ¼-½" compost or coarse sand to fill holes. This introduces microbes and improves decomposition. Repeat annually.
• For severe thatch (1"+): Vertical mowing (dethatching) in late May-June when Bermuda is actively growing. Set blades to cut ½" into thatch layer. Remove debris. Follow with core aeration and topdressing. May need to repeat dethatching in 2-3 years.
• To speed decomposition: Apply organic amendment with beneficial microbes. Maintain soil pH 6.0-7.0 (add lime if low). Reduce nitrogen to 3-4 lbs/year instead of 6 lbs. Water deeply but less frequently.
• For prevention: Mow more frequently (2x weekly during peak growth), bag clippings occasionally (every 3rd mow), reduce nitrogen application, aerate annually, maintain proper soil pH.

Visual Symptoms:

Bermuda grass stolons (runners) spreading into mulched beds, vegetable gardens, or neighboring properties. Difficult to control, keeps coming back even after pulling.

Most Likely Causes:

• Natural growth habit - Bermuda is EXTREMELY aggressive with stolons and rhizomes
• No physical barrier - Nothing stopping underground rhizomes from spreading
• Healthy, vigorous lawn - Well-fertilized Bermuda spreads faster (this is actually good!)
• Shallow edging - Rhizomes grow 2-6" deep, shallow edging doesn't stop them

How to Diagnose:

Not a health problem - this is Bermuda doing what Bermuda does! The question is control, not diagnosis.

Solutions:

• For immediate removal from beds: Hand-pull stolons and dig out rhizomes. Get ALL roots/rhizomes - even small pieces resprout. Apply mulch 3-4" deep to smother. Repeat weekly until under control. This is ongoing battle without barriers.
• For long-term control - physical barriers: Install edging that goes 6-8" deep (metal or heavy-duty plastic). Trench along border, insert edging, backfill. This stops most rhizome invasion. Re-edge/trim barrier line monthly.
• For chemical control in beds: Carefully spot-spray escaped Bermuda with glyphosate (Roundup) using shielded sprayer. Avoid drift to desirable plants. Kills in 7-14 days. Repeat as needed. Use 2% solution (2.5 oz per gallon water) for spot treatment.
• For vegetable gardens: DO NOT use chemical herbicides! Install 8-12" deep barrier around garden perimeter before planting. Manually remove any escaped Bermuda. Consider raised beds with solid bottoms.
• For neighboring properties: Edge property line monthly with string trimmer or blade edger. Communicate with neighbors. Consider 8" deep barrier fence at property line if they complain.